Our Mountaineering FAQ answers common questions about gear and trip preparation. It’s designed to help you feel confident and well-prepared before starting your climbing adventure with us.
We find that the majority of the people climbing Huayna Potosi have very little or no experience in the mountains. We find that people’s expectations and experience on the trip don’t always coincide e.g., route was harder than expected, weather was colder than they were thinking, didn’t know how to dress properly, got sick in high camp, etc.
These tips are to help you with your ascent of Huayna Potosi or other high-altitude mountains:
Clothing
Boots: Every brand of boot fits differently, even if they are the same size. The only way to get the proper fit is to try on the boots. When trying on a pair of double boots, it’s better go a little bigger rather than smaller. You can always put on another pair of socks if the boot feels slightly too big. However if the boot is too tight and it starts to feel painful during the climb, this can make the difference between making the summit or not!
Thermal underwear: Your base layer. You are going to need a good pair of thermal underwear or base layer. It needs to be tight or fit close to the skin to take the moisture away from your body and help keep you warm. Cotton is not recommended as it does not wick moisture, keeps you cold, and takes a long time to dry.
Pants: For summit day three layers are recommended; thermal underwear, a pair of trekking pants, and a wind shell. If you get cold easily, then another pair of thermal pants is needed.
Tops: For summit day the following combination is recommended; a thermal top as your base layer, one or two polar jumpers/pullovers, a fleece/softshell jacket, and a windproof shell. Carry one warmer down jacket or something similar in your summit pack as an additional layer. A balaclava will help seal the top of your jacket to stop the wind from coming in.
How to dress: As it’s probably your first time, it may be hard to judge how cool it’s going to be or how warm you are going to feel. There is a very fine line between under dressing and over dressing. By over dressing you tend to sweat too much and by under dressing you will get too cold. If you are over dressed and start to feel hot, use the zippers to open the jacket and get more ventilation. During summit night, you can experience a variety of temperatures. Instead of taking layers off, or taking your jackets on and off, use the zippers on your jacket and jumpers to regulate your temperature.
Equipment
Equipment: Or better known has hard wear. There are many different types of crampons, ice axes, and harness, etc. Each piece of equipment has it’s purpose. There are any number of styles of a given piece of equipment however they all serve the same purpose. For a climb like Huayna Potosi, a 12 point crampon works the best along with a light weight harness and one ice axe, classic style. Gear might look old but that doesn’t mean it won’t function. A new pair of crampons can look old after only four or five trips, the same with an ice axe. Look for equipment that is in good condition, e.g. not broken and straps are not worn out. A guide can use the same pair of crampons for 10 years and they will still function the same as a new pair of crampons.
Hygiene
Hygiene in camps: You really want to watch yourself in the camps, especially in high camp. There are a lot of people in a small area with little water. There can be 30 to 40 people a day using the same toilet and no one is washing their hands properly because of the lack of water. Use hand gel and watch what you bring to your month.
The Route
Route up Huayna Potosi: In climbing terms the route is very easy. It is a basic climb with a few easy technical parts where you have to use basic climbing skills. For people with no climbing experience, this can still be harder then expected. Most of the route is trekking on the glacier. Conditions on the mountain are constantly changing throughout the season. There are two small technical parts. The first one is at 5600 m where you need to cross the bergschrund (crevasse). This involves a large step across a small crevasse and climbing a 2 m wall. The crevasse will become wider during the dry season. This is only a small wall but it can be difficult for some people. The second more technical section is the final ridge to the summit. This part follows a very exposed ridge, technically very easy but the exposure can make it feel more difficult than it really is.
Huts
Base camp and High Camp: In Base camp and high camp the accommodation is basic with beds, tables for dining, and outhouses. High camp is furnished with bunk beds with cushions however space is limited and on rare occasions the only available accommodation may be a mattress on the floor in the loft.
Tips for Eating
Liquids: At altitude our blood tends to get thicker making it harder to carry the oxygen through our bodies. By drinking lots we can help the blood to stay more fluid which helps carry more oxygen, in turn minimizing the chance of headache. Tea and hot drinks will be readily available.
Food: You will probably find that just snacking a little bit here and there is the best or a big soup. A big appetite at altitude is a good sign of acclimatizing well.
