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Climbing Ojos de Salado (6893m) and Aconcagua (6962m)

Ojos del Salado
0/5
Duration

25 days, 24 night’s

Tour Type

Specific Tour

Group Size

12 people

Languages

English, Español

Overview

The two highest in South America

The Chilean high plateau desert east of Copiapó, above Chañaral, is well known by the world mountaineers as it concentrates the highest number of six thousand meter peaks in the Andes. During this trip, we propose to climb the two highest in South America, first climb is Mulas Muertas as part of our acclimatization and then Vn. Ojos del Salado. The highest volcano in the world. During the trip we will come across places of amazingly beautiful and diverse nature, and from the summits the 360 degree views beyond description. After our attempt on Ojo`s del Salado we fly to Argentina to Mendoza. From Mendoza we head out to Aconcagua. The highest mountain in the America’s, our attempt will be a quick ascent as we will have acclimatized on Ojo’s del Salado. On this trip we will see very different regions and cultural difference.

Tour’s Location

Highlights

  • Type of activity: Non technical climbing, high altitude trekking
  • Difficulty: Good fitness
  • Experience required: Basic climbing skills/ some experience
  • Grade of climbs: F
  • Tour starts in Copiapo (Chile)
  • Tour ends in Mendoza (Argentina)
  • Best time of year: November to March
  • Season: Dry season: days are mild and nights are cold
  • Highlights: Visiting the Atacama Desert, Climbing the two highest mountains in South America. Visiting Chile and Argentina.

Itinerary

Expand All
Day 1: Copiapo airport - Copiapo (200m)

Transfer to hotel, meeting with guide and question time.
45 mins drive, Hotel 3*

Day 2: Copiapo - Valle Chico (3000m)

We leave Copiapo in the morning and head east, up the dry valleys. Scenery changes from dry mountains to rivers in the lower valleys. Our camp is along the road in one of the dry valleys. This first night is part of our acclimatizing before we head up to the Altiplano.
2 - 3 hour drive (BLD) camping

Day 3: Valle Chico - Laguna Santa Rosa (3800m)

We make a short walk in the morning in the area, which is all part of our acclimatizing. After lunch we pack up camp and drive to our second camp site. The road takes us to the pass of, Portezuelo Maricunga, at 4125m above sea level. From the pass we head down to Laguna Santa Rosa and Maricunga Salt Flat. Near the Laguna is a small hut where we make our second camp, at 3800m. We are in the middle of the Chilean high plateau, which is the most southern part of the Atacama Desert and the home of a very diverse wildlife, such as flamingos and foxes. In the evening we can make a short walk, where we have the chance see local flora and fauna where there is a large variety of birds.
2 - 3 hour trek, 1 - 2 hour drive (BLD) Camping

Day 4: Laguna Santa Rosa - Cerro Pastillitos (5090m) - Laguna Santa Rosa

Cerro Pastillitos is another mountain near by the Laguna Santa Rosa. To climb this mountain we will drive for about 30 minutes to the base of the mountain to 4350m. From here we start our climb to the summit. There is no real trail as this mountain is not climbed often. From the top we can see Volcano Copiapo in the distance, our next objective. The route back down we can take a scree slop which makes it a little easier to come down. Once back at the car we drive back to camp.
1 hour drive, 5 - 7 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 5: Laguna Santa Rosa - Laguna Verde (4350m)

We drive through an incredible landscape that leads us to Laguna Verde. We join the international route to Argentina. We have a short drive today and this will give us time enjoy a dip in the hot springs near Laguna Verde.
2 - 3 hour drive (BLD) camping

Day 6: Laguna Verde - Volcano San Francisco (6018m) - Laguna Verde

We start very early in the morning, with a transfer to the start of the climb. The summit is at 6018m with views of all the surrounding mountains. The climb is on easy terrain with some scree in places Same way back down and drive back in the afternoon to Laguna Verde.
1 hour drive each way, 8 - 10 hour climb (BLD) camping

Day 7: Atacama, base camp -Tejos Refugio (5837m) - Base Camp

Today we carry some food and fuel to Camp I (Tejos). The trail is sandy and rocky. We walk mainly on the road which is easy walking. Once at Tejos we drop our gear inside the metallic hut. Here we have a rest and take a look around the area before we head back down to base camp. The walk up and sleep low is to improve our acclimatization.
5 - 7 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 8: Rest day at Atacama, base camp

We use this day to rest and recover, before we go up to camp I and give the final push to the summit, which will be physically demanding. We will prepare our gear for the summit day. This day could be a reserve day in case we have bad weather.
(BLD) camping

Day 9: Atacama, base camp - Tejos Refugio (5825m)

Today we move up high camp, following the same trail. We also carry the rest of the gear we will need for the summit day. We will arrive early to get hydrated and rest for tomorrow's climb.
3 - 4 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 10: Tejos Refuge - Summit (6893m) - Tejos Refuge - Atacama, base camp

Starting very early in the morning, we climb 8 to 9 hours up to the summit. The route follows a small zig zag trail up to around 6400m. From here the trail becomes loss on pomes stones making the terrain loos, the ground that may be snowy or dry. This part will take us to the carter rim and from here we can see the true summit. From the carter rim there is a small track in the rock where we reach the final rock climb to the summit. Normally there is a fixed rope in this section to help with this part. From this amazing summit we will see all the major summits of the area, including Tres Cruces, Pissis just to name a few. Depending on our time we can walk back down to Refugio Atacama.
12 - 16 hour climb (BLD) camping

Day 11: Atacama Refugio - Bahia Inglesa, Caldera (20m)

We dismantle the tents, organize the gear, pack the equipment and load the cars. We drive back to Copiapó, and onto Bahia Inglesa next to the beach for a relaxing rest.
5 - 6 hour drive (BL) Hotel 3*

Day 12: Bahia Inglesa - Copiapo airport - Santiago airport - Mendoza airport - Mendoza (750m)

Transfer to the airport in the morning and fly to Mendoza. We need to take two flights to Mendoza.
20 minutes drive each transfer (B) Hotel 3*

Day 13: Mendoza - Penitentes (2500m)

In the morning we get our climbing permits before we drive out to Penitents. The drive is along the Rio Mendoza. Along the way we can see white water rafting down the Rio Mendoza. A lunch stop along the way at the quite town of Uspallata, after lunch we have one more hour to the hotel at Penitents. Gear packing for the mules, for the next days.
3 - 4 hour drive (BD) Hotel 2*

Day 14: Penitents - Pampa Leña (2800m)

A small transfer by car to Puente de Vacas, from where we start our hike up to Pampa Lena. We follow the river up the valley. Along the way we can see green, yellow and black lizards lurking from the sun backed rocks. We want to take today’s walk at an easy pace, as it will help with the acclimatizing.
4 - 5 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 15: Pampa Leña - Casa de Piedra (3200m)

Not much altitude gain today, but we have a long walk up the valley. Following the Rio Vacas up stream we see a little wild life and if lucky we can spot wild Guanacos. Just before reaching camp we have a first views of Aconcagua. We can see the east and south face. We also can see the valley we have to walk up the next day.
6 - 8 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 16: Casa de Piedra - Plaza Argentina (4200m)

Today is our last day of walking to reach base camp, the walk is up a
different valley called the Relinchos. We follow the river coming from base camp, we also have a lot of climbing. We really feel the altitude. In front us we have great views of the south and east face. This is one of our most important days for acclimatizing. If you feel good arriving to base camp, it will help a lot.
7 - 8 hour trek (BLD) camping, Base camp services

Day 17: Base camp

Rest day and medical checkup by the medical staff in the base camp. Some light actives in base camp.
(BLD) camping, base camp services

Day 18: Base camp - Camp 1 (4900m)

Today we move up to camp 1. The walk follows a small trail through the moraine. There are some steep sections along the way. Once at camp 1 we set up camp.
5 - 7 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 19: Camp 1 - Camp 2 (5400m) Chopper camp or Camp 3 de Guanacos

After packing up camp we head up the valley to the Collado Ameghino (5367m). At the pass we take a trail heading right to our camp.
4 - 6 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 20: Camp 2 - Camp 3 (5850m) Cholera

Later start as we can really start to feel the cold mornings. Small zig zag track up to a long travers. Another small zig zag to reach our camp.
4 - 6 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 21: Spare day

Spare day for rest or bad weather. This day can be used at the lower camps or any were on the program.
(BLD) camping

Day 22: High camp, Cholera (5850m) - Summit (6962m) - high camp (Normal route)

Today is our big day, to try for the summit! We leave around 6 am. It’s going to be cold on the mountain, so this means we want to dress well. The trail is well defined as it zig zags its way up the mountain. The first mayor place is Independencia (6200m) a small wooden hut, which is almost destroyed. This is a good place for a break as it’s has some protection from the wind. After Independencia we climb up to the traverse Paso el viento (windy pass). This is going to be the coldest place on the mountain and can reach up to -45°C. We going to be moving slow through here to try and conserve energy for the last part, the Canaleta! After the traverse we reach the bottom of the Canaleta. From here the summit looks really close, but it’s still 2 more hours minimum. The Canaleta can have ice and snow and this means we need to use our ice axe an crampons. The Canaleta is also the steeper part of the route so pacing is a must if you’re going to reach the Summit. Next stop is the summit! We made it! From the top we have amazing views all around us. After some rest and photos, we head back down the same way. Going down through the Canaleta can be a little tricky, so this means we want to take it easy. Once we are below the Canaleta the trail gets easier. A few more hours and we are back at camp. Time for a rest and to rehydrate.
10 - 18 hour climb (BLD) camping

Day 23: Cholera - Plaza de Mules (4200m)

After our Summit bid, we will walk down to Plaza de Mules. This side is where the real highway is. There are many tracks to follow and people. On the way down 7we will pass Nidos de Condor camp. From Nidos down, it’s large scree slop to the small city of tents called Plaza de Mules. Tonight we can stop for some beers at varies pubs in base camp.
3 - 5 hour trek (BLD) camping, Base camp service

Day 24: Plaza de Mules - Horcones (2800m) - Penitentes

The last day on the mountain, we have an easy walk out. Most people run this section as there are hot showers and cold beers waiting for us in the hotel! We follow the infamous Playa ancha (the wide beach) and pass the camp site of Confluencia. From Confluencia to the park entrance is one hour more, from where we take a transfer to the hotel.
6 - 8 hour trek (BL) Hotel 2*

Day 25: Penitentes - Mendoza

Same drive back to Mendoza, and transfer to Hotel.
3 - 4 hour drive (B) Hotel 3*

Day 26: Mendoza - Airport

Transfer to airport from hotel.
30 minutes (B)
END of SERVICES

Included/Excluded

  • Professional English speaking guide, Guide ratio 3 to 1
  • Meals as mentioned, including drinks at camp meals (B – breakfast, L – Lunch, D – dinner)
  • Full private transport for all days
  • 6 night’s Hotel
  • Flight from Copiapo to Santiago and from Santiago to Mendoza
  • 3 days base camp services at Aconcagua (2 days at plaza Argentina and 1 day day at Plaza de Mules)
  • Mules to carry gear up to base camp and back down for Aconcagua
  • Full camp, includes: tents, kitchen equipment, chairs, tables, dinning tent etc
  • Cook
  • First aid kit
  • Satellite phone (phone calls @ $4us per minute)
  • VHF radio, for contact with base camp
  • Free medical checkups in base camp (Aconcagua only)
  • First aid kit
  • Oxygen bottle
  • Personal gear
  • Personal insurance
  • Climbing permit for Aconcagua
  • Extra services not mentioned in the program
  • Extra services for leaving the trip early
  • Drinks at restaurants meals
  • Porters for Aconcagua
  • Tips

Tour Length

25 days

Group Size

1 - 10
1 - 12
1 - 6
6

Tour Type

Mountaineering and climbing

Tour's Location

Ojos del Salado
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