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Climbing Austria Peak (5300m), Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m), Huayna Potosi (6088M) and Illimani (6437m)

Condoriri
0/5
Duration

10 days, 9 night’s

Tour Type

Specific Tour

Group Size

Unlimited

Languages

English

Overview

Classic climbs in Bolivia

The Condoriri massif consists of 13 different peaks. Requiring different climbing abilities depending
on the mountain. Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m) is the most popular peak in the area and is a great mountain for acclimatizing. The highest peak in the area is the Cabeza de Cóndor (5648m), it is also one of the most demanding peaks in the massif. Cabeza de Cóndor is also known as Condoriri and is referred to as “the Matterhorn of Bolivia”. On the second part we move to Huayna Potosi (6088m), known as one of the easiest 6000m plus mountains to climb in the world. Deservedly one of Bolivia’s most popular climbs. Last is Illimani and is both the highest and the southernmost peak in the Cordillera Real. Visible from most of La Paz, Illimani is an imposing sight. According to local legend it is the Queen or Mother of the mountain range. Illimani has five peaks in total; three of them over 6,000m. It is a fairly demanding climb, but well worth the effort for the views of La Paz and the Cordillera Real, and the chance to summit Bolivia’s second highest peak. We also have to chance to see communities, largely untouched by modern society, Andean wild life and great views of the surrounding area.

Tour’s Location

Highlights

  • Type of activity: practice mountaineering techniques,
  • moderate technical climbing with ropes, trekking up to high camps (5400m), reach a maximum height of 6439m
  • Difficulty: good fitness
  • Experience required: some experience / experienced
  • Grade of climbs: Austria Peak F, Pequeño Alpamayo - West, south west ridge III-/ AD 45°-55°, Huayna Potosi - Normal route II/AD - 50°, Illimani - Normal route II/PD 50°

  • Tour starts in La Paz
  • Tour ends in La Paz
  • Best time of year: May to September
  • Season: Dry season: days are mild, and nights are cold
  • Highlights: Visiting small communities in the Cordillera
  • Real, the Condoriri massif, views of Lake Titicaca.
  • Learning mountaineering techniques, Climbing and reaching
  • the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi and Illimani

Itinerary

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Day 1: La Paz (3600m) - Rinconada, Lago Tuni (4500m) - Condoriri Base camp (4700m)

We will pick you up from your hotel and drive up through Al Alto. Along the way we have views of the Cordillera Real. After reaching the village of Palcoco we take one of the dirt roads heading up the valley towards the Condoriri group. At the end of the road we will meet the mules. The mules will carry all the equipment up to base camp.We also start our walk up to base camp from here. The walk is on a good trail and we have great views of the mountains in front of us.
2 - 3 hour drive, 1 - 2 hour trek (LD) camping

Day 2: Condoriri - Austria Peak (5300m) - Condoriri

After breakfast we head out for the climb up to Austria Peak. Trail is well used, making it clear and easy to walk. Our directing is north west from the base camp. After a couple of hours of climbing we reach a saddle. At the saddle we can see the mountains of Cabeza de Condor (5648m) (The head of the Condor) and Ala Izquierda (5533m) (The left wing). From the saddle we can see the last bit to the summit. At the top, we can see most of the Cordillera Real, to the north-west Lake Titicaca (3810m) and on a clear day Mt Sajama (6549m) in the far distance. The highest in Bolivia. Same way back down to base camp.
5 - 6 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 3: Condoriri - Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m) - Condoriri

An early start in the morning for our accent of Pequeño Alpamayo, after one hour of walking on a trail we reach the glacier, from here we will need to put our crampons on, and head up the glacier. First, we have to climb Mt Tarija (5200m), once on the summit of Tarija we need to drop down a little way on the other side. The last 100m of climbing is good fun on a ridge. We have good views of Huayna Potosi (6088m).Same route back down to base camp. This day you will need to lead to the climb and take the guide as if he were a client.
7 - 12 hour climb (BLD) camping

Day 4: Condoriri - Paso Zongo (4700m) Base camp of Huayna Potosi - High camp Huayna Potosi (5150m)

We have an easy walk back down where we meet our transport to take us to Paso zongo. After some lunch at Paso Zongo we head up to high camp. High camp is on a rock buttress at an altitude of 5200m and at the base of the glacier. The walk up in on a well used path on rock. Once at high camp we need to get our gear ready for the next day, as we have an early start in the morning. We also have time to rest and rehydrate. It’s an early night tonight where we sleep in the Refugio.
1 hour trek down the valley, 2 - 3 hour drive, 2 - 4 hour trek up to high camp (BLD) Refugee

Day 5: High camp - Summit (6088m) - High camp - La Paz (3600m)

We have an early start as it is a long day, it will also be cold. We start climbing with
our crampons on, and the rest of our climbing gear. The climb is mostly follow a trail on the glacier. We have 2 steep sections, one at around 5600m, called the Pala Chica. Here the trail goes through a small ice and snow wall. After this part we keep following the trail on the glacier up to 6000m. From here we can see the summit. The last section to the summit is great climbing on an exposed ridge. From the summit we can see from Illimani (6439m) to Illampu (6368m). After we take our photo shot on top, we head back down the same way to high camp. Once back at high camp we have a short rest and pack our gear. We then head back down to base camp to meet our transport back to La Paz. Drop off at hotel.
9 - 13 hour climb, 1 hour drive (BL)

Day 6: La Paz (Rest day)

Free day in La Paz.
(B) Hotel 3*

Day 7: La Paz (3600m) - Pinaya (3900m) - Puente Roto, Base camp (4500m)

We have a winding drive through the Cordillera, passing lots of small villages and some cactus-filled valleys. We will drive through the Palca canyon and stop for a short visit. After 3 to 4 hours of driving we will get to the village of Pinaya where we will have a picnic lunch before our walk up to base camp.
3 hour drive, 2 - 3 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 8: Puente Roto - Nido de Cóndor, High camp (5400m)

Climbing on scree and rock will take us to the high camp. The porters will carry all the equipment and personal gear. It’s a long climb for the day: over 1000m ascent. Up at the top we can see La Paz, and at night the lights of La Paz and El Alto.
6 - 8 hour trek (BLD) camping

Day 9: High camp - Summit (6439m) - High camp - Base camp

An early start in the morning for our climb to the summit; it will be cold. We start roped-up and with our crampons on. We will be climbing on ice and snowy ridges, but nothing steeper than 50 degrees. The last short snowy ridge takes us to the summit. Time to rest and take photos before our decent. Back at high camp the porters will meet us and take all the equipment and personal gear back down to base camp.

12 - 15 hour climb (BLD) camping.

Day 10: Base camp - Pinaya - La Paz

Same walk down to Pinaya as day 1, where we meet our transport to take us back to La Paz. Drop off at hotel.
1 - 2 hour trek, 3 hour drive (BL)

END of SERVICES

Included/Excluded

  • Professional English speaking mountain guide, guide ratio 2 clients to 1 guide
  • Meals as mentioned, including drinks at camp meals (B – breakfast, L – lunch, D – dinner)
  • All private transport
  • Mules to carry gear up to base camp of Condoriri and Illimani and back down
  • Porters, up to high camp and back down to base camp, Huayna Potosi and Illimani
  • 1 night refugee (high camp Huayna Potosi)
  • 1 night hotel (La Paz)
  • Camping fees and entrance fees
  • Cook
  • Equipment for the mountain, ropes and protection
  • First Aid kit
  • Oxygen bottle
  • Personal clothing
  • Personal insurance
  • Extra services not mentioned in the program
  • Tips

Tour Length

10 days

Group Size

1 - 10
1 - 12
1 - 6
6
10 - 15
15 - 20
20 - 25
Over 25
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Tour Type

Mountaineering and climbing

Tour's Location

Condoriri
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@Climbing

Member Since 2022